Skip to content
EveryOrchard
Menu

Species guide

Apricots

10 apricot varieties with cited chill-hour, zone, and pollination data. Most are self-fertile.

  • Blenheim~400 chill hrs (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)zones 7–9 (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)self-fertile
  • Goldcot~800 chill hrs (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)zones 4–9 (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)self-fertile
  • Harcot~700 chill hrs (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)zones 4–9 (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)self-fertile
  • Moongoldchill —zones 4–9needs partner
  • Moorpark~600 chill hrs (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)zones 6–9 (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)self-fertile
  • Puget Gold~600 chill hrs (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)zones 6–9 (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)self-fertile
  • Sungoldchill —zones 4–9needs partner
  • Tilton~600 chill hrs (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)zones 5–9 (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)self-fertile
  • Tomcot~500 chill hrs (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)zones 4–9 (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)self-fertile
  • Wenatchee Moorpark~700 chill hrs (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)zones 5–9 (Figure from a nursery catalog; no extension-published value.)self-fertile

(est.) marks our clearly-labeled estimate where no source publishes a figure (hover for the basis); dashed badges cite nursery catalogs rather than extension sources; “—” means nobody publishes that figure for the variety.

Apricots are self-fruitful and quick to reward you, but they bloom very early and dislike wet feet, so a well-drained, frost-safe site is everything.

Sun & site

Apricots need full sun. Because they are among the earliest fruit trees to bloom, choose a site that isn't a frost pocket so an early bloom isn't caught by a late cold snap.

Soil

Apricots grow in most soils as long as drainage is good; like peaches and plums, they have little tolerance for wet, heavy ground and are prone to root-rotting problems there. Test the soil before planting so you can address drainage and fertility ahead of time.

Spacing

Most apricots are self-fruitful, so a single tree will set fruit on its own — though a second variety blooming at the same time can improve the crop. Space trees about eighteen to twenty-two feet apart to give them room to mature.

Watering & first years

Water young trees deeply and infrequently rather than little and often; overwatering raises the risk of decline in these drainage-sensitive trees. Avoid planting apricots in a lawn, because grass is usually watered more often than is ideal for a fruit tree and competes with it for nutrients.

Planting

For a potted tree, dig the hole twice the width and the same depth as the container. For a bare-root tree, keep the graft union two to four inches above the soil line so the variety doesn't root on its own.

Where this guide comes from

This growing guide is drawn from the university-extension sources below.

  1. Utah State University Extension. How to Grow Apricots in Your Home Garden — accessed July 2026

Month-by-month apricot care, anchored to each zone’s typical frost dates: